Dries Van Noten:
Concept: “Let there be light” seems to me like a good concept. The designer tried to capture light in every outfit, which was reflected in colors and the brightness of the clothes.
Inspiration: chinese ceramics, present in ceramic florals.
Also important: oversized coats in minimal looks and sheer which, not being the main characteristic, also made it’s way to another show.
Marco Zanini said about this collection: “It’s personal, a melting pot of all I love” and he can certainly use the word all, because there were even pajamas on the catwalk.
Colors: camel, green moss, and brights like blue and yellow.
Inspiration: Barbro’s village
Note: both cocktail and red carpet dresses were amazing.
Guideline: “teddy boy-meets-punk masculinity”, Vogue. Tomboy girl in rock & roll and metallic outfits meets some kind of wet plastic textures and flats.
Inspiration: the cocoon-shaped coats were inspired in Cristobal Balenciaga designs.
Curiosity: Nicolas Ghesquière oppened the show with three unknown models and closed with the “biggest” of them all: Gisele Bündchen.
Like a real femme fatale, Zac’s models appeared in red and scarlet. Then, turning into a more gothic vibe, black, feathers, fur, lace and the emphasis on shoulders reigned. Gothic refers to black, black refers to night and so did this collection. This time, the designer focused mainly on evening ensembles.
For keeping: lace and fur, which moved from fall/winter to spring/summer.
Again, lots of sheer in some kind of hide and reveal game.
I, myself, am a bit tired of all of the punk ,trashy thing Balmain insists for the second time to bring us. Leather, denim and studs sound a bit last year to me. Fortunately to the brand, people are different and have different styles.
Entitled “The Only One” , the planet Earth and the need to save it were the main subjects. Recycling, reuse and garbage bags were all implicit in her creations.
References: 18 and 19th century gowns and suits.
Source for photos and text: Style.com