Alexander McQueen used to be my favorite designer and when he passed away I thought the brand would lose it’s soul and creativity, but I have to admit, Sarah Burton has been doing a great job, for what I’ve seen so far. She seems to have a strategy: you can see sooner or later it will be all about her design, but yet she’s been trying to maintain the most she can of McQueen’s signature. The drama and theatricality of McQueen’s creations is still there, such as the futuristic silhouettes (emphasis on the shoulders), the ribbon embroidery and floral prints in dark hues. At the same time, there is an improvement when it comes to colors. Burton opened the show with white and continued with lighter hues. Also lighter were the biggest part of the ensembles: she left brocades and preferred lighter crafts.
You can clearly see she shared his ideals when it comes to designing but she is a woman and that’s what makes things different. “Tender” was the word Sara Burton chose to define the collection, and these white sets translate it very well.
The new creative director said early she likes crafts and she wanted to impress them in her creations.
Love the black military coat and the black.
The theme of the season was Mother Nature: by inserting leaf prints, some kind of leaf embroidery and butterflies in her creations, the designer expressed the theme very well and also made way for feathers, which is a something McQueen used a lot. Some say the butterflies are a symbol, related to the metamorphosis of the brand.
To me, the most amazing pieces, were the dresses that appeared in the of the show. Can you believe that one with the bottom all made of feathers? It’s amazing!
WWD mentioned the pressure the designer must have felt, before presenting the collection, WSJ considered it the most celebrated show, with excellent tailoring and the Guardian said it was the most anticipated and an “extraordinarily beautiful show”. But the biggest critic came from Vogue:
She did it. In an act of supreme tact, she chose to face the ordeal of her entry onto the stage of worldwide exposure on a runway of humble bare boards.
Below, some black and white behind the scenes pictures, by Agata Pospieszynska.